| On Food and Family |
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On Food and Family by Victoria Ugarte
Childhood memories seem to orbit around the senses and few are more powerful than those associated with food, which can define us in ways that we don’t fully appreciate. Some of the most dominant recollections of my childhood stem from our unique Basque-Spanish-Filipino heritage and distinctly link food and family. In fact fusion techniques in cooking was the norm at our collective family kitchens long before the concept became fashionable as a result of our mixed heritage.
Flashbacks of Mom’s dinner parties included delicacies such as Solomillo and Lobster Thermidore,which she arranged as a spectacular centrepiece. Fiestas were a time for Lechon, roasted on a spit with a rich and succulent skin and eaten with a sweet liver paste sauce, and of course, Paella (pictured above left).
The nucleus of Ugarte clan gatherings in Manila was the residence of Tia Mercedes and Tio Tony Gonzalez, with whom my Abuela (Ana Aboitiz Ugarte) lived. My heart warms at the memory of Sunday afternoons in their rambling backyard, under the great avocado trees, eating pica-picas (from the Spanish word “picar”), listening to adult chatter as they drank San Miguel beers and Rum-Cokes, while us kids ran wild around the spacious lawn.
Christmas day at Tia Mercedes’ house was particularly special for us children. Tios, Tias and cousins arrived in their Sunday best, their children trailing after them, clutching their new toys. Under a big white marquis, there would be a long buffet groaning with an array of mouth watering dishes. Our Christmas fare was mostly American in origin, with dishes such as Turkey and Cranberry Sauce, Christmas Ham and the ubiquitous plate of macaroni and more, sending our senses reeling. On such occasions I would have a profound sense of belonging, a sense that these were “my people, my family”.
After the death of my father, Sebastian, in 1973, my brothers, Juan Miguel and Eduardo, and I migrated with my Mother to Sydney Australia in 1976.
In Sydney we found our “people” in the home of Pinkie and Emil Ugarte in Baulkham Hills, where we enjoyed many long lunches, dinners and children’s parties. Although Spanish-Filipino cuisine was still our staple diet, the Australian influence began to slowly take hold. Prawns, steak, lamb and sausages replaced Solomillo, salads supplanted gulay, Pavlova, fruit and cheeses replaced Suman and Bibingka, and the fine Australian wines replaced the Rum-Cokes and San Miguels. Thus our diet slowly evolved.
The arrival in Sydney of my eldest brother, Xavier, and his wife Rebeca Salvatierra heralded the infusion of French and Latin- American elements into our cuisine. Rebeca and Xavi hosted many a gathering at their Glenhaven home in the mid-1980’s.
Gradually our children multiplied and the definition of “Food and Family” expanded. Gathering in people’s homes on a regular basis became expensive and too much work for the hosts during the late 1980’s and 1990’s. Having large family picnics in parks and reserves around Sydney became a viable alternative, especially on Easter, Christmas, or when a family member arrived from the Philippines. These events were usually organized by Elena Melian Whatson, who would take care of picking the spot and rallying the “troops” to turn up. Our Australian friends were amazed at the quantity of food and the preparation involved in these picnics. Old habits die hard.
As they grow older, our children continue to form their own memories of “Food and Family”. Since my childhood in Manila, Twitter, Facebook and SMS texting have taken over as the communication technologies of choice and our children in Australia resort to them frequently to organize reunions in restaurants and pubs to celebrate someone’s birthday, or a cousin’s arrival from Spain or the Philippines. Food has taken on an even greater significance for two young members of our clan who have turned it into a profession, Chefs Gina Ugarte (Jaime and Bonet Ugarte’s daughter) and Justin Ugarte (my son).
“Food and Family” are emotionally significant for us all as they trigger off pleasant associations and fond memories of our uniquely Basque-Spanish-Filipino heritage. When we feel less than secure, we tend to seek out those sensual memories during times of stress and upheaval. Despite other things changing us, we start and end with family, but in the midst of it all, there has always been food.
About the Author: Victoria Ugarte is the Founder and Director of Postcards From Millie. Based in Sydney, Australia, she spends 3 months out of every year traveling the world, keeping you posted on the most exciting destinations, itineraries, travel tips and resources. Yearning to travel the world but no time to plan it? Ready to explore the globe but not sure of where to start? Let Victoria bring the world to you on http://www.postcardsfrommillie.com/
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Memories of my childhood in Manila in the 1960‘s and early 1970‘s predominantly feature the cooking of my mother, Julia Ugarte. Our palates enjoyed an array of dishes originally adopted by the Filipinos as a result of the migration and colonization of different cultures.