Betsey Johnson: Cartwheeling Her Way Through Life

By Victoria Ugarte

Strolling through the exclusive shopping mall of Wailea, Maui last September, I despaired as store after exclusive store of funereal shades graced the windows. This was Maui, after all!! The quality, finishing and fabrications of the garments on display were exquisite, faultless (as were the price tags), but wasn’t fashion meant to be the antidote for the doom and gloom of the times? The last thing I needed at this time of financial crisis was more sober and somber clothes. What happened to the fashion that sent my pulses racing and put a smile on my face?

Just when I had lost hope, one store stood out like a beacon and drew me in like a bee to the honeysuckle, Betsey Johnson. As I walked into the store, my love affair with all things Betsey was slowly rekindled, as I remembered her as a source of inspiration for me in my own design school days in the early 80’s – the madness, the humour, the passion and the COLOUR! Rack after rack was filled with flirty, whimsical, deliciously frothy and sexy bodices and full skirts, print and pattern in a cacophony of exhuberance as large as Betsey’s signature red-lipstick grin. I had died and gone to frock haven!

Chomping at the bit to photograph the Betsey Johnson store for the November issue of Postcards from Millie, I was informed very politely by the lovely staff member that I would need permission from head office before proceeding. This was a problem for me, as Peter and I were leaving Maui for Honolulu the following day, and I would not be able to come back to the Wailea store. The good news was that Betsey Johnson also has a store at the Ala Moana centre in Honolulu (in fact, I was later informed that she had over 70 stores worldwide!). In 24 hours, permission was granted to photograph, so I gingerly headed off to the Ala Moana centre the day after we arrived in Honolulu.

On arrival, I met with Marilee Mattson, store manager of Betsey Johnson, Ala Moana, Honolulu. Poised, beautiful, intelligent, confident, and a little sassy, Marilee personified the essence of the Betsey Johnson woman, as did the rest of the staff in the store. When I probed a tad and asked them what it was like to work for Betsey Johnson, the woman and the company, they were lavish in their praise. They cited the company’s excellent levels of communication and recognition of staff achievements via the company’s regular newsletter “Pink Ladies” as a strength. And their comments on the product speaks for itself, “This is the best job in theworld! We get to play dress-ups with all these fabulous clothes!” said one. Clearly, these were very enthusiastic employees, committed to their product, and proud to represent the Betsey Johnson label. They felt valued and part of “the team”. After this refreshing feedback, my admiration for Betsey Johnson grew even more, and I had to find out who she really was.

Betsey Johnson was born in Weathersfield, Connecticut on 10 August, 1942. All through her childhood and adolescence, she took dance classes, which was to prove a source of inspiration in her design in later years. After high school, Betsey attended Pratt Institute, then graduated from Syracuse University “magna cum laude” in 1964.

Shortly after her graduation, she landed the coveted position of guest editor for Mademoiselle magazine, which was to prove pivotal in her career. Being involved with the art department, she was given the enviable opportunity to travel to London at the height of the Beatles/ Carnaby Street era, which infused her sponge-like mind with the psychedelia of the 1960’s. She returned to New York, transformed and brimming with ideas, and she thrust herself into designing fashion for New York’s clothing boutique, “Paraphernalia”. She began working with unusual and off-beat fabrications for the clothes, such as car interior lining and shower curtains.

In 1968, Betsey married band member John Cale of the Velvet Underground, part of Andy Warhol’s underground scene. During that time, she mixed and dressed the likes of Edie Sedgwick, Twiggy, Veruschka and Lou Reed. In 1969, she opened her own New York shop, “Betsey Bunky Nini”. With Edie Sedgwick as her house model, Betsey drew inspiration from her dance background, and began designing slip dresses, drop waist ballerina styles and embroidered sweaters.

In the 70’s, Betsey took control of the label,”Alley cat”, which was popular with the rock musicians of the day. With her finger forever on the pulse of street-inspired chic, she designed bohemian/ ethnic inspired styles that was a new and “hot” look for that time. Betsey won the coveted “Coty Award”, becoming the youngest designer to ever receive it.

In 1971, Betsey divorced. In 1975, after becoming involved with a sculptor, a relationship that was to last 3 years, Betsey gave birth to a daughter, Lulu. Lulu now works with Betsey. Betsey is now a grandmother to Layla.

Finally, in 1978, Betsey started the “Betsey Johnson” label with ex-model Chantal Bacon and opened her own retail store in Soho. In the early 80’s, her retail store in Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles was born. Today, there are 70 “Betsey Johnson” stores in the U.S. and the world, with stores in London, Vancouver, Toronto and Japan. Betsey’s signature prints and designs have also crossed over to handbags, belts, eyewear, watches, swimwear, lingerie, legwear, shoes and fragrance, making “Betsey Johnson” a true lifestyle brand.

In late 2002, Betsey was honoured with an induction into the “Fashion Walk of Fame”, for her contribution to American fashion. In March 2005, she was honoured with the “2005 Lifetime Achievement Award”, and in May 2007, she received the “Designer of the Year” award at the annual Fashion Accessories and Benefit Ball (FABB).

Whilst in vacation in Mexico in 2003, Betsey bought and transformed a small, old hotel, turning it into a dream vacation home which she christened “Betseyville”. In 2004, Betsey purchased another home in Mexico and called it “Villa Betsey”. This has now become her main home in Mexico, when she’s not in residence in New York, and she rents “Betseyville” to the public for vacations (accommodates 8-10 people).

After four decades, Betsey Johnson, the original wild child, continues to harness the essence of the feminine, combining it with the mood of the streets. She continues to create a fashion lifestyle look that is refreshingly bold and unapologetic, and more importantly, alive. A survivor of breast cancer, Betsey remains an advocate in fighting the disease, serving as Honorary Chairperson for the Fashion targets Breast Cancer initiative. And at 68 years of age, she still cartwheels down the end of her fashion show runways.

“Archetypal Earth Mother” Betsey Johnson is definitely not, although she does invite women to become women again. She is more fairy godmother, wielding her magic wand, waiting to grant your every wish. And indeed, in the short time that I spent in her store, surrounded by playful prints and exhuberant colour, I was transported once again to my time as a girl when the land of Oz was real and everything was possible.

Betsey Johnson, we salute you.

External Links:
www.betseyjohnson.com
www.betseyville.com

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